Tiny World Of Calvin Goh

My Most Audacious Build Thus Far

2011-03-01T05:50:00.000-08:00

This is the model of a M4A1 (76) W Sherman that I have just finish building. It is my most audacious built so far.

The lower hull is the Tamiya M4A1 kit. The upper hull is from Tank Workshop. Almost everything on the upper hull comes from the Hobby Boss M4A1 (76) W kit, except for the front loops which is also from the Tamiya kit. (I lost the Hobby Boss one in the building progress. The turret is from the same Hobby Boss kit. The gun barrel is from Gasoline. The periscope fixture is from Hauler. The machine gun, which I will fix on late rs will also be from Hauler.

Soviet's Giant - KV-2

2010-04-29T20:30:00.000-07:00

The Kliment Voroshilov (KV) tankswere a series of Soviet heavy tanks, named after the Soviet defense commissar and politician Kliment Voroshilov. The KV series were known for their extremely heavy armour protection during the early war, especially during the first year of the invasion of the Soviet Union in World War II.

This model of the KV-2 is the Tamiya 1/48th Scale KV-2. It was built straight from the box and painted with Gunzo Sangyo's Russian Green lightened with Sail Colour. The horizontal surfaces were further lightened to create the colour modulation effects.

The models was then washed with diluted Raw Umber oil paints and pin washed with diluted Raw Umber mixed with Black. The paint chips was achieved with a mixture of Raw Umber oil with Black pigments. Finally, the dust effects was achieved by spraying diluted Tamiya Acrylic Buff.

Hope you like this model.

WALL.E

2009-12-30T21:47:00.001-08:00

Those of you who have read my previous post will know that there are a number of changed in my life. One of the side effect was lost of patience. So, I decided to do something different for a change too.

The WALL.E model is actually a toy. It was pre-painted and there was already some weathering. I gave the model a generous coat of flat coat before embarking on further weathering.

I first gave the "model" a coat of Raw Umber oil paint wash. After that, I did pin point wash on all edges. This is followed by some paint chips by gently dipping a hard brush loaded with Raw Umber oil paint.

The base is first given a layer of "mid", made up of a mixture of wall putty, white glue, fine sand and static grass. The mixture was dyed with Tamiya Acrylic Flat Earth and Flat Black. After applying the mixture, "WALL.E" was pressed onto the mixture to create the track marks. The problem with that was that there were wheels below. So, I can only use the front and and the back part of the bottom tracks.

The trash and debris are electronic parts from an old and completely damaged cell phone. The boot holding the grass was cut out from an old but horrible looking 1/16 scale figure. The grass came from the bristle of an old brush. All these were pressed into the base while it was wet. Raw Umber oil paints were applied as wash when every thing was dry. Finally, WALL.E was glued on.

The entire model was entered into a Mini-Diorama Groupbuild organised by my friend's hobby shop. The other entries can be seen in the links below.

http://www.themworkshop.com/MEVENT_GROUPBUILD_MINI_DIO.htm

All comments are welcome. Thanks for viewing.

Pacific GB British 150th Armour Regiment M3 Lee

2009-12-25T18:18:00.000-08:00

Hi all. On the morning of 16th September 2009, I woke up with extreme headache on the left side and numbness arms and legs. Being a former medic, I knew that I am in trouble. I admited myself into the hospital immediate. A MRI scan confirmed my fears. I had a stroke. However, all my symptoms were gone the next day. The doctors had some good news for me. I had a very minor stroke as I had a clot in one of the vessels in my brain. The only injury I had was the blindness of my right upper peripheral vision, which will take some time to recover. Thank God.

After being discharged, I still wanted to continue the models that I committed. However, I find myself loosing patience as I had changed my eating habit and quited smoking (out of fear...lol). I also needed a pair of magnifier to paint my model, which take some getting used to. In the end, I decided to give up the group build. However, I felt that since the tacks for this M3 Lee is sponsored, I should finish it. Therefore, I decided to give up on the half-track group build but continue with the M3 Lee. (Sorry Lu.)

The base kit for this M3 Lee is Tamiya's M4A1 Sherman. The conversion kit is from Ken Swenson and the tacks is from one of our sponsor,Fighting 48.

Building the kit is pretty straight forward. The lower hull, sprocket, road wheels, ideller comes from the Tamuya kit. The hull and turret comes from Ken
s Conversion kit. Looking through the only reference I have, Osprey's book on the M3 Lee, I realise that the main gun is different and there is no machine gun turret on the M3 of the 150th Armour Regiment. Therefore, I also used the main gun and commander's hatch from the Tamiya kit.

The model is first sprayed with Gunze Sanyo's Mr. Colour Dark Earth + Black then Dark Green + Sail Colour. The bolts and nuts were painted with dark yellow. The whole model is washed with diluted Raw Umber oil paint. The pin point wash was done with a mixture of raw umber and lamp black oil paint. Some paint chips were added after that followed by some dirt streaks.

The tracks and base were treated with a mud mixture of fine sand, static grass, white glue and wall putty. The mixture is dyed with Tamiya's Flat Earth and Flat Black before applying. After drying, the area is misted with Flat earth, followed by Buff to create the dust effects.

I cannot really see how I do with this model. I hope it is still as good as before if not better. All comments are welcome. Thanks for viewing and putting up with this long message.

2009-10-27T19:25:00.000-07:00

I have not been posting for a while, neglecting my 3 cats that I have completed for a while. Well, here they are.

INTRODUCTION

The Panther was a tank fielded by Nazi Germany in World War IIthat served from mid-1943 to the end of the European war in 1945. It was intended as a counter to the T-34, and to replace the Panzer III and IV, though it served along with them as well as the havier Tiger Tank until the end of the war. The Panther's excellent combination of firepower, mobility, and protection served as a benchmark for other nations' late war and immediate post-war tank designs and it is frequently regarded as the best tank design of World War II.

Until 1944, it was designated as the Panzerkampfwagen V Panther and had the ordnance inventory designation of Sd.Kfz. 171. On 27, February 1944, Hitler ordered that the Roman numeral V be deleted from the designation.

The Panther tank was a compromise of various requirements. While sharing essentially the same engine as the Tiger I tank, it had better frontal armor and firepower, and was lighter overall and thus faster, and could handle rough terrain better than the Tigers. The tradeoff was weaker side armor, and so the Panther would prove to be deadly in open country and shooting from long range, but vulnerable to close-quarters combat.

The Panther was also far cheaper to produce than the Tiger tanks, and only slightly more expensive than the Panzer IV, as its design came to fruition at the same time that the Reich Ministry of Armament and War Production was making great efforts to ramp up war production. Key parts of the Panther tank, such as its armor, transmission, and final drive, were compromises made specifically to improve production rates and address Germany's war shortages, whereas other parts such as its highly compact engine and its complex suspension system remained with their elegant but complicated engineering. The result would be that Panther tank production would be far higher than what was possible for the Tiger tanks, but would not be much higher than what had been accomplished with the Panzer IV. At the same time, the simplified final drive became the single major cause of breakdowns of the Panther tank, and was a problem that was never corrected.

The Panther tank arrived in 1943 at a crucial phase in World War II for Germany. Rushed into combat at the Battle Of Kursk before its teething problems were corrected, the Panther tank would thereafter only be fighting outnumbered in Germany's steady retreat against the Allies for the remainder of World War II. Its success as a battlefield weapon was thus hampered by Germany's generally declining position in this war, with the loss of airpower protection by the Luftwaffe, the loss of fuel and training space, and the declining quality of tank crews. Nevertheless, the Panther tank demanded respect from the Allies, and its combat capabilities led directly to the introduction of heavier Allied tanks such as the IS-2 and the M26 Pershing into the war.

I had in my collection 2 Panther Gs (1 of them was a gift) and 1 Jadgpanter. I decided to do them all back to back, starting with the Panther G Early.

THE MODELS
All the 3 models are done using the same colours and methods except for the IR (Infra-Red) Late Panther G. The camouflage was masked and spray. The colour used are the same ones I used in previous German Armour projects. Weathering are pretty much the same. The only difference are the crew. The Early Panther G uses a Tamiya. The figure for the IR Panther is from Mig's Production and the dog in the cupola is from ....I am sorry, I cannot remember it....

Anyway, I hope you will enjoy this model.

Panzwekamptwagen V - Panther G (Early)

Jadgpanther G

Panzerkampfwagen V - Panther G (Late)

Allied Power Group Build - U,S. M4A1 and Free French M4 A2

2009-08-05T00:27:00.000-07:00

Introduction

Early this year, Luciano Rodiguez announced an Allied Power Groupbuild in the Missing Links 1/48 Discussion Group. Having missed the earlier Mardermania Group Build, I immediately jumped at the chance to interact with fellow 1/48th scale modeler and decide that I will have time to contribute more than 1 model. Initially, I planned to contribute 1 model for each of the major allied power, which were the Russian, the British, the French and the Americans. However, I took some time off to build the StuG III in the earlier post, plus an accident happened to my Russian SU-122, I am left with enough time to build 3 models. Therefore, I decided to work on the 3 major Western Allies tanks. The British tank was a Cromwell with Hessian Tape camouflage. It is posted earlier. So, this post will be focus on the other 2 Western Allies tank, the U.S. M4A1 and the Free French M4A2 Sherman tanks.

Background

The M4 Sherman, formally Medium Tank, M4, was the primary tank used by the United States during World War II. It was also distributed to the Allies via lend lease. Production of the M4 medium tank exceeded 50,000 units and its chassis served as the basis for numerous other armored vehicles such as tank destroyers, tank retrievers, and self-propelled artillery. In the United Kingdom the M4 was given the name Sherman after Union General William Tecumseh Sherman, following the British practice of naming their American-built tanks after famous American Civil War generals. Subsequently the British name found its way into common use in the US. Many nations continued to use the tank in both training and combat roles into the late 20th century.

During the production period, the US Army's seven main sub-designations, M4, M4A1, M4A2, M4A3, M4A4, M4A5, and M4A6, did not necessarily indicate linear improvement: for example, A4 is not meant to indicate 'better than' A3. These sub-types indicated standardized production variations, which were in fact often manufactured concurrently at different locations. The sub-types differed mainly in engines, although the M4A1 differed from the M4 by its fully-cast upper hull rather than by engine; M4A4 had a longer engine system that required a longer hull, a longer suspension system, and more track blocks; M4A5 was an administrative placeholder for Canadian production; and the M4A6 had an elongated chassis, but fewer than 100 of these were produced. Only the M4A2 and M4A6 were diesel-engined: most Shermans ran on gasoline. "M4" might refer specifically to the initial sub-type with its Continental radial engine, or generically, to the entire family of seven Sherman sub-types, depending on context. Many details of production, shape, strength, and performance improved throughout production without a change to the tank's basic model number; more durable suspension units, safer "wet" (W) ammunition stowage, and stronger armor arrangements, such as the M4 Composite, which had a cast front hull section mated to a welded rear hull. And, the British nomenclature differed from that employed by the U.S.

The Model

The U.S. M4A1 is a Tamiya kit built straight from the box, with Hauler's Culin's Hedgerow Cutter and Browning .50 Cal machine gun added. It was first spray painted with a mixture of Gunze Sangyo Mr. Colour's Dark Earth and Flat Black as a pre-shade. This is followed by a the base colour of Olive Drab lightened with Sail Colour. The bark bands are a mixture of Mr. Colour's Flat Black and Character Flesh 2, which has a pink tint in it. Decaling, weathering, paint chips and mud are pretty much the same as the models that I have posted previously, except that the paint chips are more controlled as there are not as much chips on the Sherman as compared to German vehicles. Stowage are from various bands that I have remaining in my spare box.

The Free French M4A2 is also a Tamiya M4A1 with an upper hull from Steve Faxon's Conversion. The decals comes from Gasoline. The rest of the process are the same as the U.S. M4A1.

Overall, I feel that the Allied Power Group Build is a success and there are a lot more beautiful models contributed. You can view the rest of the models from the group build at the links below. Happy viewing.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/527528/message/1246450546/I+agree+--%26gt%3B+Allied+Power+Victory+Parade

Thanks for viewing.

Tamiya 1/48th Scale Sturmgeschütz III Ausf G (Late)

2009-08-04T22:58:00.000-07:00

INTRODUCTION
My friends have been telling me what a prolific modeler I am, producing a model every 3 weeks. However, the standard of my model has been stagnant until a fellow 1/48th scale modeler in Missing Links Discussion Group challenge to me to upgrade my skills further. I decided to take this challenge and requested my friend and teacher, Bernard Cher of M Workshop, to teach me further weathering effects such as chipping. To do so, I used the Tamiya 1/48th scale Sturmgeschütz III Ausf G (Late), which I have in my stash.

BACKGROUND

The StuG III was designed to fill an infantry close support combat role, early models were fitted with a low-velocity 75 mm StuK 37 L/24 gun to destroy soft-skin targets and fortifications. After the Germans encountered the Soviet KV-1 and T-34 tanks, the StuG III was equipped with a high-velocity 75 mm StuK 40 L/43 main gun (Spring 1942) and later – the 75 mm StuK 40 L/48 (Autumn 1942) anti-tank gun. These versions were known as the Sturmgeschütz 40 Ausführung F, Ausf. F/8 and Ausf. G.

The Model

The model is basically built straight from the box, except for the air-intake grills which is from Hauler. The stowage is from a manufacturer called Black Dog from Czech Republic, which manufactures very beautiful accessories for 1.48th scale armour.

PAINTING

The model is first spray painted with Gunze Sangyo Flat Earth as a pre-shade. The base colour of Dark Yellow, lightened with Sail Colour, was then sprayed , avoiding the edges so as to leave some traces of shadow. Further highlights were then sprayed, using only Sail Colour, onto the flat surfaces at the top of the super structure and engine deck to create a modulation effects. Finally, the tracks and the lower hull were sprayed with a mixture of Dark Earth and Matt Black to simulate muddy effects.

When these are complete, a coat of Gloss varnish were sprayed onto the model for applying decals. After applying the decals, I painted the details such as the wooden and metal parts of the tools with acrylics. I also painted some of the washes for some areas. When that was done, a coat of mat varnish was sprayed on and the model is ready for weathering.

WEATHERING

The first step to weathering this model is by giving it an over wash using diluted Raw Umber oil paint. Pin point washes were then added to the corners and panel lines, using a dark brown mixture of Raw Umber plus Lamp Black. This is applied when the general wash is still moist (not wet). This was done several times till the pin point wash can be seen clearly. The model is then left to dry thoroughly before I applied the paint chips.

I was a relatively late comer amongst my friends when it comes to paint chips. The advantage of this is that they have all experimented several methods and they are using the method that they are comfortable with. For me, I am only comfortable with the method that allows me to clean off any mistake. Therefore, my teacher taught me to use Raw Umber oil paint mixed with black pigment. The paint chips were applied with a fine brush (I use a 5/0 brush.) by placing dots at the edged, joining them in sections and expanding them out, finishing with scattered dots at the outside of the sections. With the paint chips done, I sprayed another coat of matt varnish to protect the chips for my next step.

My next step is to add dirt streaks to the side panels of the models. This is achieved by dabbing raw umber oil paint at the top edge and drawing the paint down with a brush damped with turpentine. Dirt stains were also added on surfaces where there are human activities.

The final part is the mud on the tracks and wheels. That is achieved by mixing white glue, wall putty, fine sand, Tamiya acrylic Flat Earth and Flat Black. The mixture were applied by dabbing it onto the wheels and tracks. When mixture is dry, several coats of diluted Raw Umber oil paints were applied.

THE STOWAGE

As I have mentioned above, the stowage came from a Czech company called Black dog. it is beautiful and crisply moulded with minimum casting block. The only drawback is that every component were moulded together. Therefore, painting them. But I guess you can't have the best of all worlds. The stowage were hand painted with acrylics and applied onto the model with white glue.

Well, so much for the description. Here is the photos of the models. Thank you for viewing.

Tamiya 1/48th Scale British Crusier Mk VIII A27M Cromwell with Hessian Tape Camouflage Net

2009-05-31T18:49:00.000-07:00

The Tank, Cruiser, Mk VIII, Cromwell (A27M), named after the English Civil War leader, Oliver Cromwell, was one of the most successful series of Cruiser Tanks fielded by Britain in World War II. It was the first tank in the British arsenal to combine a dual-purpose gun, high speed, and reasonable armour protection, all in one balanced package. Its design formed the basis of the Comet Tanks.

This model depicts the Cromwell tank in 1/48th scale with Hessian Tape (Burlap) camouflage net on the turret. The Hessian/Burlap is a coarse clothe material, often used to make sacks and bags to ship goods like coffee beans. It is breathable and thus resists condensation and associated spoilage of the contents. It is also durable enough to withstand rough handling in transit; these properties have also led to its use for temporary protection of setting cement and concrete by the construction industry. Owing to its durability, open weave, naturally non-shiny refraction, and fuzzy texture, Ghillie suits are often made of hessian. It was also a popular material for camouflage scrim on combat helmets of World War Two. Until the advent of the plastic "leafy" multi-color net system following the Vietnam War, burlap scrim was also woven onto shrimp and fish netting to create large military camouflage netting.

The turret and most of the barrel are moulded with the Hessian Tape camouflage in resin. These, together with the stowage and accessories come from the outstanding 1/48th scale accessories manufacturer Black Dog of the Czech Republic. Their products were excellent quality and the resin is easy to work with.

The base of the model is the Tamiya 1/48th scale British Cruiser Tank Mk VIII A27M, Cromwell. It was built straight from the box. The turret and gun were assembled then. One have to be careful when transversing the turret as the "Hessian Tape" hanging from the barrel will obstruct the movement. After priming, the model is ready to be painted.

The model was first given a coat dark colour for pre-shading. A coat of Ginze Sangyo Mr. Colour's Dark Earth mixed with Flat Black was applied. After that, a coat of British Dark Green lightened with sail colours were sprayed to the "panels" for the base colour. After the base colour, the model was given a washed of diluted Sep Green oil paint to give the model a greener tone. The model is then set aside to dry.

When the model is completely dry, I gave the model a gloss coat before I apply the decals. This is to minimise the "silvering" around the decals. I decide to use the decals straight from the box as I do not have any other alternatives. The decals were set on the model with Mr. Mark Softer from Gunze Sangyo. After applying all the necessary decals, the model is then given a matt coat. The next step is weathering.

Several coats of diluted raw umber oil paint were applied onto the model. This is to give it a dirty look plus toning down the lightened dark green base paint. Diluted Raw Umber mixed with Lamp Black oil paints were then applied to all the crevices, panel lines and around the blots and nuts. When the washes were completely dry, all the raised area and edges were dry brush with Yellow Orche mixed with White oil paint.

To represent the worn look on the Hessian Tape, I dry brush the tapes with yellow orche oil paint, and work toward the lighter shades by adding more white oil paint progressively. Light mud were added followed by dusting by misting Tamiya Acrylics Buff onto the model with an air brush. The stowage were painted the same way.

Finally, the crews, which are also from Tamiya, were assembled straight from the box. They were painted with acrylics as base and weathered with oils.

Hope you enjoy this model.

1/48th King Tiger With Porche Turret

2009-03-31T23:47:00.000-07:00

The Panzerkampfwagen VI-B Tiger is also known under the informal name Königstiger (German for the Bengal Tiger). It is often literally translated by the Americans as King Tiger, and Royal Tiger by the British. It is often feared by the Allies due to it's formidable Type 43 L71 88mm high velocity main gun and its 100mm thick frontal armour and 80mm thick side panel armour. The Porsche turret had a very distinctive shape with a rounded front section and narrow shell as compared with the rather angular Henschel turret. Porsche produced 50 turret for it's version before the official adoption of the Hanschel turret. Evaluation had revealed that the Porsche turret lacked armour thickness and required complex tooling due to its rounded contour sculpturing.

The model I am presenting here is a Tamiya 1/48th scale German King Tiger Porsche Turret. It is built straight from the box with resin zimmerit from Atak and a short length of bras wire for the headlights.

The base colour was sprayed with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Colour's Dark Yellow lightened with Sail Colour. After that, the green was sprayed on (I cannot remember the name of the colour.), again lightened with sail. Finally, the brown was sprayed using Gunze Sangyo's Mr Colour's Red Brown lightened with the base colour. Washes of Yellow Orche oil paint was applied to the entire model, followed by Sap Green on the green bands and Burnt Sienna on the brown bands as filters. The purpose is the make the colour richer.

After the model is completely dry, a gloss coat was sprayed on the model and decals were applied. After that, a Matt coat was applied and the weathering process begins. I first washed the entire model with diluted Raw Umber. Then pin point washed of a mixture of the Raw Umber and Black oil paints were applied to all the corners. This followed by some streaking and dirt stains. When that was done, light dry brush of Yellow Orche mixed with White was applied on the raised area to bring out the details further.

The mud is a mixture of sand, wall putty, white glue, static glass, Tamiya's Matt Black and Buff (which is a mistake as the correct colour should be Flat Earth). Several coats of Raw Umber wash was applied to give it the appearance. Finally, the tracks were again dry brushed with Black oil paint.

1/48th Sherman I Hybrid Firefly

2009-02-09T19:53:00.000-08:00

The Sherman I Hybrid Firefly is one of the inventions of the British and Canadians to counter German Tanks in the Second World War. It is armed with a 17-pounder gun, which can penetrate the frontal armour of the formidable Tiger and Panther tanks used by the Germans then. Many Allies nations were using this tank at the time, including the British armed Polish Army at the Western Front.

This kit is basically a Tamiya kit with an Iron Division upper hull. For this model, I decide to use Polish markings by Gasoline, which I bought online from Quarter Kit. It was spray painted with Gunze Sangyo Dark Green II+Sail Colour. After putting on the decals, the model was washed, both general and pin point, with Raw Umber oil paint. A coat of flat varnish was sprayed over it before filtering.

For the filtering, I used mixture of Cadmium Yellow Hue and Cobalt Blue diluted oil paints to wash over the entire model. When that was dry, I dry brushed a mixture of Yellow Orche and White oil paint on the raised parts and the sharp edges to bring out the highlights.

Then crew is from Tamiya and built straight out of the box, except for the driver. Part of the legs have to be "amputated" in order to fit it in. They were painted with Vallejo Acrylics for base. The details were then added with oil paints.

The stowage on the model is mostly from Legends Models. There are also bits and pieces from Tamiya, Hauler and Blackdog. The .30Cal machine gun is from Hauler.

1/48th StuH 42

2009-02-09T19:27:00.000-08:00

This is a 1/48th scale model of a StuH 42 from Tamiya. It is basically a Sturmgeschütz III mounted with a 10.5 cm leFH 18 howitzer, modified to be electrically fired and fitted with a muzzle break. The model is built straight from the box and the figure comes from Tamiya German Infantry set.

The model was spray-painted with Gunze Sangyo Dark Yellow + Sail colour. After decaling, the model was weathered and filtered with oil paints. A mixture of mud using fine sand, wall putty, white glue and coloured with acrylic Earth colour and Flat Black was then applied. Further wash and dry brush using oil paint mixtures was used.

M-10 Archilles

2009-01-20T23:55:00.000-08:00

Introduction
This is a model of a M-10 Achilles Tank Destroyer. It is an American M-10 Wolverine modified by the British to accommodate the more powerful 17-pounder gun, which shells can penetrate the frontal armour of the German Tiger Tank.

The Model
The model is basically a Tamiya 1/48th scale M-10 U.S. Tank Destroyer with MR Modelbau M-10 Achilles Conversion set. The main items used for this modes are the metal gun barrels with resin muzzle, resin counter weight of the turret, resin gun breech and turret stowed shells.

Painting
The model is first primed with Gunze Sangyo Flat Black. The base colour is a mixture Gunze Sangyo Mr Colour's Dark Green II and Sail Colour. After decaling and detail painting, the model is first overall washed with Artist Oils Raw Umber, followed by pin point wash of a mixture of Raw Umber and Lamp Black. Dusting is created by misting diluted Tamiya XF-57 Buff over the model. Filters of different shads of Artist Oils green and purple were then either washed or dry brushed on. The highlights were dry brushed on using a mixture of Yellow Orche and White oil paint.

The figures are from Squad 48. They are first painted their base colours using Vallejo Acrylics. The shadows and highlights are then painted using oil paints. The stowage are from my spare box, consisting of Tamiya, Hauler, Legends and MR Modelbau parts.

Hope you like what you see.

Greetings

2009-01-20T23:42:00.000-08:00

Greeting fellow netizens. I started this blog on 21st January 2009. The reason is to share my passion with you. In this blog, you will be able to see the scale models that I have built. Hope you will enjoy it.